Research Journal of Engineering Sciences ___________________________________________ ISSN 2278 – 9472Vol. 4(4), 9-15, April (2015) Res. J. Engineering Sci. International Science Congress Association 9 Development of Different Denim Effect on Knitted Fabric and Comparative Analysis with Conventional Woven Denim on the Basis of Physical and Dimensional Properties Salim Azad Didar, Sarif Ullah Patwary, Shahidul Kader, Maeen Md. Khairul Akter and Toufique Ahmed2 Southeast University, BANGLADESH National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER), BANGLADESHAvailable online at: www.isca.in, www.isca.meReceived 18th October 2014, revised 10th January 2015, accepted 5th April 2015 AbstractNow- a- days denim is the term which conquers the world with spectacular fashion appeal. Denim is that fabric which goes through all forms, looks and washes to match with the ever-changing fashion trends of people. Conventional denim is a durable and heavy twill-weave fabric made from cotton;it is woven from coarse indigo dyed or sulphur dyed warp and grey un-dyed weft yarn. In the competition with smooth and extensible knitted fabric, denim has made a suitable place in fashion market earlier. Since denim takes up a large share of the market in the present world, and as knitted fabric has various structures which allows it to fit body shapes and be comfortable, a new way of combining the two methods of fabric construction to create a “Denim effect using knit structures” can be found. Research has been carried out using single jersey circular knitting machine to create denim effect with knit and tuck loop separately. Keywords: Denim, Knit denim, fashion, woven denim. Introduction Denim exists in all varieties, looks and washes to equal any attire all over the world. But it’s hard to believe that denim firstly was used in clothing for the pants worn by miners on the west coast of US. Gradually, due to technological advancements, denim turned as a fashion symbol. Denim has been widely acknowledged by all the age group throughout the world since many years. In the three dimensional world, denim is not only a three-dimensional material, metaphorically four-dimensional because it changes with time as well. Denim is a sturdy twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. It is a characteristic of most indigo denim that only the warp threads are dyed, whereas the color of weft threads remains plain white. As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the fabric shows the colored warp threads and the other side shows the white weft threads. The classical denim is a strong durable heavy fabric made from cotton, woven from coarse indigo dyed or sulphur dyed warp and grey un-dyed weft yarn characterized as hard- wearing, high density fabrics with a high mass per unit area. Conventional woven denim is not as soft in texture as other knit fabrics and so applications of denim in fashion design is limited. Knitted fabric has certain special characteristics that make it suitable for creating a wide range of garments and accessories like tights, glues, underwear and other close fitting garments. Modern consumers are interested in clothing that not only well in appearance but also has great feels. Denim is the right fabric at the right time, and its market is expanding. As lifestyles change, so does denim - with new weights, fibers, finishing techniques, application treatments and end-uses. Though Knitting and weaving are two different technologies in fabric manufacturing line, it can be now possible to imitate the same appearance and properties in different products. Since the denim has great demand in the market at present and knitted fabrics are popular for their shape fitting properties, softer handle, comfortable nature and high extension at low tension, a new way of combining the two methods of fabric construction to create a “Denim effect using knit structures” has been effected so as to create Value added Product. Knitted denim has made great inroads: Sometimes, knits look like woven; and sometimes, woven denim looks like knitted. This paper, explores the field of creating knit denim fabric as well as distinguishing from woven denim fabric through physical and dimensional properties. Research was carried out using single jersey circular knitting machine to create denim effect with knit and tuck loop separately. Knitted denim fabric with its delicate structure, clear lines, softness and breathable comfort affirm the ultimate solution putting both fashion and comfort in balance. Knit denim is also available in attractive indigo blue shades and is made for variety of applications and in wide range of qualities and shades, the most popular being black denim. This denim is comfortable, Research Journal of Engineering Sciences________________________________________________________ ISSN 2278 – 9472 Vol. 4(4), 9-15, April (2015) Res. J. Engineering Sci. International Science Congress Association 10 fashionable, affordable and durable and popular in all the age group. Knit denim technology: While both techniques support weaving and knitting are used to produce denim effects on fabrics, the Woven denim is conventional and vastly used by valued consumers and knit denim is novice but substantially preferable due to flexibility, user-friendliness . The comfort ability of knit denim garments as well its stretch ability makes the fabric mold and move easily with body movement thereby creating huge demand to the customers11. One of the researches showed that "denim" effect on knitted fabric could be made from three types of technologies.They are: Float plated technology, Thread fleece, Interlock plaited jacquard The structure using knit and float stitch, using knit cams and sinker cams as well as sinkers to do a knit on one side of the fabric and a very tight float on the other where the float gives the woven effects. Depending on the cylinder cam arrangement, the machine generates the ability to do one-, two- and three-needle floats. The global leader in textile and clothing, China is the first country that has created and implemented idea of creating knit denim look in knit fabrics with French terry structure (cloth that features loops and soft piles of yarn). Though the indigo knits have been created for a long time, a huge increase in demand for these products came from the time Jeggings trend in woven denim became popular. With the woven denim fabrics being initially used to create the super tight Jeggings, the need for further comfort - while maintaining denim looks - was felt strongly and this has given chance to knit based fabrics, what we called knit denim11. Merits of knitted denim: The knitted denim offers the various advantages in comparison with its woven counterpart. The most common feature is the comfort ability where knit denim garments is better than woven denim garments. Morever,it mold and move easily with body movement and Its stretch ability is decent. It resists wrinkles. Most important perhaps is that knits relate well to contemporary life-styles. Knit fabrics are usually soft and drape well. Thicker fabrics compared to woven fabrics which are usually thinner where Air Permeability is more in knit fabrics. Material and MethodsFor knit denim production: 100% cotton combed yarn, ring spun Yarn count: 24/1 Ne CSP: 2420 IPI: 29.8 CV: 7.0 TPI: 17.74 Dyed yarn: 6.18 kg; No. of cones = 51 Grey yarn: 6 kg; No. of cones = 48 Lycra: 40 D; For woven denim production Grey Construction: 12x16/71x47 Finish Construction: 12x16/80x54 Weaving plan: 3/1 RHT Warp count: 12 Weft count: 16 CSP of warp yarn: 1890 CSP of weft yarn: 1779 IPI of warp yarn: 68.8 IPI of weft yarn: 92.5 TPI of warp: 17 TPI of weft: 19 Machinery Used For knit denim production Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine Sample Yarn Dyeing Machine Winding Machine Inspection Machine Hydro extractor (For Yarn dyeing) Dryer (For Yarn dyeing) Stenter(For Finishing) Compactor (For Fabric) For woven denim production Machine type : Airjet Brand : Picanol Model : OmniplusSummum Tools and Equipment’s usedGSM Cutter Electronic Balance Inspection Table Adjustable Wrench T- Type Wrench Air Gun LNK Screwdriver Table-1 Testing methods and equipment Tests Methods Equipment Fabric Weight ISO 33071 GSM Cutter, Electric Balance Pilling ISO 12 9 45-1:2000 ICI Pilling Test Box Shrinkage ISO 6330 Wascator Bursting ISO 13938-2 1999 Tru Burst Machine Spirality AATCC 179 N/A Air Permeability ISO 9237 Air Permeability Tester Research Journal of Engineering Sciences________________________________________________________ ISSN 2278 – 9472 Vol. 4(4), 9-15, April (2015) Res. J. Engineering Sci. International Science Congress Association 11 Working Procedure: Total 6 kg fabric of two single jersey fabrics: Knit denim and Tuck denim were produced in a single jersey circular knitting machine with lycra attachment. The fabric produced has been passed through a stenter and compactor in order to heat set the fabric as well as the lycra. The fabric is then tested in the best way and in the right condition11. M/c specificationMachine type : Single jersey Circular knitting machine Brand : Well Run Model : SHS-90 Cylinder Diameter : 32” Needle gauge : 24 G Number of feeder : 96 Number of needle : 2412 Rotation : Anticlo Testing procedure: The fabric’s physical properties like GSM, shrinkage and spirality as well as some chemical properties like color fastness to wash, color fastness to staining and color fastness to rubbing were measured for knit denim and tuck denim and also for woven denim of 16OE X 16OE construction. The resistance to the loss of color of any dyed or printed material during washing is referred to as its color fastness to wash. If dye molecule have not penetrated inside the inter polymer chain space of fiber with strong attractive force poor color fastness to wash result is found. For color fastness to wash test ISO 105 C06 (C2S) method was followed. Color fastness to rubbing /crocking was designed to determine the degree of color which may be transferred to a specific pressure applied by crock meter. This test was done in both dry and wet state. The crocking cloth against which the test sample would be rubbed was a white, unbleached, undyed cotton fabric. In crocking cloth, 100% pick-up was maintained for wet rubbing. Color fastness to rubbing was tested by Crock meter in ISO105 X12:1992 method. Every sample when undergoes washing most of the cases they change their dimension. In general sense the changes in length or width of a fabric specimen subjected to specify condition is known as dimensional changes. The dimensional changes resulting in an increase of length or width is called stretched condition if the dimensional changes result in decrease of length or width is called shrinkage. In case of woven fabric lengthwise shrinkage is equal to the shrinkage in warpdirection and widthwise shrinkage is equal to the shrinkage in weft direction11. At first all the samples were conditioned for 4 hours in a standard temperature and RH% and the length and width of the samples were measured before washing. After wash, again the length and width of the samples were measured for identify the stretch or shrinkage%. Both the fabric showed same shrinkage during fabric testing. Spirality is a serious problem for plain knitted fabrics due to asymmetric loops. Spirality is described by the size of the angle made between the wales and a line drawn perpendicular to the courses. Spirality in a fabric is caused by the relaxation of torsion forces in the yarn which causes the individual fibres twisted round each other during spinning, to try and returns to their original untwisted state. It is known that a fabric knitted with a highly twisted yarn will have higher spirality. Also spirality increases with increasing the number of feeders. AATCC 179 method was used for measuring spirality. The term GSM of fabric means the weight of the fabric in grams per square meter (Weight per unit area)10. GSM is the most important parameter which is maintained in the factory or industry. It is maintained in the all stages in the processing of knit fabric. It is also measured after dyeing, before dyeing and every stages of finishing process like stentering, compacting etc. GSM was measured by GSM cutter. Here grey GSM were measured in the knitting stages and finished GSM were measured after finishing for comparing them11. Results and Discussion To differentiate the properties between the knit denim and tuck denim the relevant data are tabulated in table 2Table-2 Experimental Data on Knit Denim Fabric name Yarn count Dye color Shrinkage %Spirality Color fastness to rubbing Color fastness to washing Gsm oz/yd L/W B/W Dry wet Before wash After wash Before wash Afterwash Knit denim 24/1 ne lycra 40d Reactive blue -5% -5% 2.2% 4-5 4 4 263 270 7.76 7.96 Tuck denim 24/1 nelycra 40d Reactive blue -5% -5% 2% 4-5 3-4 4 284 290 8.38 8.56 Research Journal of Engineering Sciences________________________________________________________ ISSN 2278 – 9472 Vol. 4(4), 9-15, April (2015) Res. J. Engineering Sci. International Science Congress Association 12 Table-2 Production parameters of various knit denim Table-3 Experimental data on woven denim Construction Weave Color Weight (oz/yd) Skew (%) Shrinkage (%) Color fastness to rubbing Color fastness to wash B/W A/W Warp Weft Dry Wet 16OEX16OE/76X55 3/1RHT Indigo 7.25 6.43 -1.4 -1.2 +1 4 2 3 Table-4 Data for color fastness to wash (Staining) Fabric Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Knit Denim 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 Tuck Denim 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 References 1. Devina Upadhyay, R.A.A Study on Preference with Reference to Denim Jeans in Female Segment in Ahmedabad City, International Journal of Management and Social Sciences Research , 2(4), (2013) 2. Hegarty S., How jeans conquered the world, 2012. www.bbc.com. http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine- 17101768 (accessed august 14, 2014) 3. K.S. Human comfort. C.C. Thomas Publishers,Springfiled –III ( 1985 ) 4. 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